... but I’m not speaking of autumn, I’m speaking of harvesting rose petals. There’s a brief window of opportunity when roses bloom and are at their best, and it all begins in May. Anyone who considers themselves a rose lover, and who doesn’t have “Go to the Bulgarian Rose Festival” on their bucket list, is not a true rose lover! I went with my sister and father in 2013, and it was definitely a memorable experience. Bulgaria is the home of the Kazanlak rose, which is named after the valley where it grows prolifically. The soil, climate and altitude are simply just right for these roses, and they produce the most exquisite scent. Along with red wine, Bulgaria’s main exports are rose products. As well as rose oil and rose water they produce rose honey, rose liqueur, rose-flavoured sweets and delicacies and, of course, all manner of rose skin care items. It’s not easy to get hold of Kazanlak roses in the UK. I did manage to obtain some when I lived in France but, to be honest, I haven’t tried since returning to the UK as the climate has to be right for them to perform at their best. But it’s possible to make rose water and rose oil infusions out of any roses that have a beautiful, strong scent. Rose water is, in correct terms, a “hydrolat” or “hydrosol”, meaning it is a water distillation of rose material. It is the “flower water” that remains after steam distillation of rose petals for the extraction of the essential oil. When petals are distilled, steam passes through them and carries with it their volatile aromatic compounds (including essential oil), as well as whatever water-soluble components are present. The steam is then cooled and, as it condenses, the liquid drops into a collecting container, creating two end products: the essential oil (which separates and floats) and the hydrolat – the rose water. Rose petals contain very little essential oil, and in fact rose essential oil is, by weight, typically more expensive than gold. Pure rose essential oil is one of the most expensive essential oils due to the large quantity of rose petals needed to produce a small amount of oil. On average, you might find yourself paying around £40 for 5ml (a teaspoon) of rose essential oil. High-quality rose essential oil can average out at approximately £60 for 5ml. However, prices can go even higher for certified organic or sustainably sourced rose essential oils. “Rose absolute” is cheaper, costing around £25 for 5ml / £40 for 10ml. Rose absolute is a concentrated essential oil derived by placing the petals in a solvent, such as hexane, to extract the aromatic compounds. The solvent absorbs the fragrance of the petals. This solvent is then evaporated, leaving behind a waxy substance known as "concrete" that contains the concentrated fragrance. This is then mixed with alcohol and chilled, causing waxes to solidify and separate. The remaining liquid is then vacuum distilled to remove the alcohol, leaving the pure rose absolute oil. Steam distillation is more traditional, and a more commonly used method for extracting essential oils. It is generally considered more sustainable and environmentally friendly than solvent extraction methods. When looking for rose oils, you may come across an oil called Rose Otto Damask. This is typically an oil combination of 5% solvent-extracted rose oil in 95% of a carrier oil such as jojoba or almond etc. This, whilst still smelling lovely, is significantly cheaper as the volume of pure oil is tiny. It is usually sold in a minimum volume of 10ml, and will cost as little as £5. Rose water, by comparison, is far cheaper. So much of it is produced during the process of extracting the essential oil that it is usually sold in volumes of 100ml upwards. At the Rose Festival, during the carnival procession, the watching crowds are repeatedly sprayed with rose water from pumps as large as fire extinguishers! I have a hobbyist’s still for making the rosewater for New Leaf products. If you love flower waters and want to spend the money these now come in at approximately £200 and are obtainable from home brew shops. Their intended use is for making beer and spirits, but they can be used for any flower water (chamomile, lavender etc.) and can be used to distil other parts of aromatic plants, not just the flowers. (Note to self: I must have a go at distilling rosemary.) But the results can sometimes be surprising. For instance, calendula water smells like cabbage water! New Leaf products that contain rose extracts are: Rosewater moisturiser for face Rosewater body cream Rosewater hand cream Rose facial oil Rosewater toner Double Cream rich moisturiser Rose & Palmarosa body cream Rose & Elderflower shampoo for dry hair Ice Cream replenishing eye cream The steam-distilling process can be quite time consuming. With the Air Still you can at least just plug it in, switch it on, and go away and do something else for the next hour or so. But it’s possible to make rosewater without a still. You simply have to have a method of steaming the petals, catching the steam and condensing it into a container. The following method is a bit Heath Robinson-esque but it works. It uses a fair bit of ice, and, just as when using a still, it’s a slow process. The difference being that you must attend to it quite frequently. So! To distil rose water at home you will need: You will also need: • A heat source • Water • Ice • Rose petals It’s a good idea to put all your petals on some kitchen paper and leave them for a short while to allow any bugs to leave. I often find earwigs and other stowaways, like this tiny caterpillar. Instructions: When it’s all melted, after a minute or two, use a sponge to suck up the water and squeeze it out. It will still be cool, so there is no risk of burning. Fill the lid with more ice and repeat the procedure. What is happening is that as the water inside the pan heats, it produces steam that goes through the petals and rises to the upturned lid. The ice cools the steam which condenses it to water and it runs down the slope of the lid to the handle, and drops into your collection container. It may not be easy to open the pan, you may need to insert a knife in order to raise it. Do this very carefully, with oven gloves on, as the pan will be full of steam. It is a good idea to check the inside at least once, to monitor progress, and also to see how much water is left in the large pan. You don’t want it boiling dry. Once you have distilled about 2/3 of the volume of water that you put in, that may be a good time to stop. But use your initiative! Don’t be put off by the strange smell of your rosewater. Fresh rosewater emits certain chemical vapours for the first few days. Store it in a bottle with the lid off, but covered loosely with a piece of kitchen towel. This allows the chemicals to evaporate. Once it smells 95% good it is time to close the lid. Your home-made rosewater will keep at room temperature but it will keep longer if stored in the fridge. Let me know how you get on! More blog posts from New Leaf Naturals: Chocolate & Roses Spotlight on Borage Curriculum Vitae Natural Skincare for Acne & Problem Skin Teasing Out Lyme Disease Spotlight on Marshmallow Why Use Herbs in Natural Skincare? Handmade Versus Factory Made Why Choose Natural Skincare Products?

Aromatic magic... Whenever a customer takes the lid off a tester pot, their primitive brain kicks into action. The first thing they will do is put the open pot to their nose and smell the cream. Only after having done that will they explore it further, checking texture, permeability and general feel. In the recent covid outbreak many people lost their sense of smell. As they say: you don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone. We take it for granted until it’s temporarily absent, and then we realise how perpetual it has been, to the point where we generally overlook it. Our sense of smell evolved differently to the other four main senses because it was closely tied up with survival. More primitive air-breathing creatures depended on it in order to source food, and to know if something was good to eat or poisonous. We’ve all experienced the phenomenon of catching a whiff of something that immediately sends us back to childhood – somebody’s perfume; pipe tobacco; a particular cooking smell; even something as basic as the smell of a new pencil! Odour-cued memories are known as the “Proust phenomenon”, since Marcel Proust described his vivid memory of Sunday mornings with his aunt that was triggered by eating a madeleine cake that he’d dipped into a cup of tea, just as he used to do in his childhood. Without getting too technical, our other senses deliver information to the brain through a relay system. When we see, touch, or hear something, signals travel first to the thalamus, which then refers them on to the relevant part of the brain that specialises in processing the sensory information. Eg: when we look at something, information gets sent from the eyes, to the thalamus, which interprets it as visual information, and it then sends it on to the back of the brain where the visual processing centre is. The sense of smell, however, shortcuts this process. Not only does it not depend on a relay system, but the olfactory (smell) nerve is also the shortest nerve in the head, allowing smell information to travel and be interpreted much faster than any other sensory information. This olfactory info gets split and some of it goes directly to the centre for olfactory processing, while the rest goes directly to the amygdala. The amygdala performs a number of functions, a major role being the detection of danger. It interacts automatically with our fight or flight response, and it is this which is responsible for our dramatic recoil away from horrible smells. The amygdala is also closely linked to our memory centres as we need to recognise and remember information about what is dangerous or safe. It is because of this close relationship that smells can evoke immediate recollections from the past. Smell and taste are called "chemical senses" because both respond to molecules in the food we eat or in the air we breathe. When we experience the flavour of a food, we are really responding to the food’s taste, and its smell, together. But enough of the complicated stuff! Let’s talk about chocolate... “Chocolate or cocoa is a food made from roasted and ground cacao seed kernels that is available as a liquid, solid, or paste” (Wikipedia) The botanical name for the cocoa tree is Theobroma cacao. Theo – meaning God, Broma – meaning food (Greek), therefore Food of the Gods. This implies that even hundreds of years ago cocoa was both valued and revered. According to a BBC article women crave chocolate twice as much as men do, and despite research into the constituents of cocoa there is no conclusive evidence that explains why chocolate is the most craved food in the West by women before and during menstruation. One main constituent, Theobromine, has an effect on the nervous system a little like caffeine in that it boosts energy, alertness and cognitive function. It boosts blood flow to the brain, but doesn’t cause the sort of caffeine rush that strong coffee would. As well as this beneficial effect on brain function, chocolate • Enhances immunity, by being anti-inflammatory and by helping in antibody production • Reduces blood pressure • Balances cholesterol • Supports the lungs and helps to calm respiratory distress Apart from these good excuses to indulge our guilty pleasure, there are other reasons why chocolate may be such a comfort to us. Firstly, it contains an amino acid called Tryptophan. The more tryptophan we have available the more serotonin we can produce. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter that plays an important role in mood regulation and is known to be a key factor in overall mental health. Low levels of serotonin can cause depression, anxiety, insomnia, and other mental health conditions. But to make serotonin from tryptophan we need carbs. So a slice of chocolate cake, (made with organic wholemeal flour of course) will be more effective than a couple of pieces from your favourite bar. Especially as the eggs in your cake recipe also contain tryptophan. Secondly, alongside tryptophan another beneficial chocolate molecule is Anandamide. This affects the same receptors in the brain that are affected by cannabis, and are linked with endorphin production. An article on bebrainfit.com calls anandamide the “bliss molecule for happiness & mental balance” and states that chocolate is its no. 1 food source. So there are numerous reasons for our positive relationship with chocolate. I think I have only come across one person who has told me they categorically dislike it. One or two people say they can take it or leave it, but nearly everyone else expresses … keenness… to a greater or lesser extent, regardless of age or gender. Truth be told, there’s not a lot of chocolate in New Leaf products! I do use cocoa butter in the Wintergreen Cream as it is more of an ointment, so cocoa butter’s richness contributes to the balm-like texture. I use cocoa butter frequently in soap recipes too. But the main product where it is featured is Choc Chip arnica balm It gives weight and richness to the cream, but - more than that – it offers comfort by way of its chocolatey smell. As mentioned in a previous blog post, wherever possible New Leaf products have light-hearted names that imply that they are good enough to eat. Choc Chip is so called because I created it when I was living in France. The French word for a bump or bang is “Choc”, as in shock. My hands were tied! What more appropriate title could I give a cream that treats bumps, bangs (and more serious physical shocking injuries) than Choc Chip? And what we always need to “make it better” is consolation and comfort. The smell of the cocoa butter actually helps to calm an upset child (of any age ;-) ) A New Scientist article states “Eating a bar of chocolate may cheer you up, but sniffing it calms you down, says a British psychologist. Among several food smells tested, only chocolate had a significant calming effect on the brain.” The smell of chocolate reduces theta brain waves and encourages a sense of calm. This BBC Bitesize article states: “Chocolate has chemical compounds present in it that make us feel good. It releases endorphins in the brain so just the smell can make you feel better.” Recent German research has shown that the mouth-watering aroma of chocolate is down to the same chemical that contributes to the fragrance of roses. Beta-ionone - found in perfume and essential oils – has only recently been identified in chocolate. Adding all of this up, it’s no co-incidence then, that chocolate and roses are classic gifts that express affection, love and caring. When we sniff something and experience its scent, we are taking a chemical vapour into our body. These inhaled chemicals trigger brain and body response. There is increasing interest in the use of essential oils in pharmacology. The internet is littered with studies about how essential oil components benefit both the nervous system and various bodily functions. An advantage of inhaling your medicine is that it doesn’t get digested and then broken down by the liver, it can access parts of the body far more directly and far more intact. In the quest for treatment and prevention of Alzheimer’s disease, research is ongoing into how oils such as rosemary benefit the memory centres of the brain and help with mental acuity. Rosemary is an essential (pardon the pun) ingredient in the New Leaf spot-on: “Inspire”, a blend of oils known for their ability to focus the mind. Dr Chris Van Tulleken, from "Trust Me I’m a Doctor" fame, has written a feature on rosemary and generously states: “Traditional healing practices weren't all quackery. Modern medicine of the kind I practise in London may have many sophisticated treatments but it comes with side effects and can leave people feeling disempowered. We have spent many years rubbishing alternative treatments but there is, I believe, a real benefit in allowing people to take control of their own health with treatments that make them feel better - even if we haven't been able to prove how.” So again, my mantra: don’t underestimate the power of nature! We take the idea of natural fragrances as being something common or garden… Yet the beautiful scent of a rose is the result of up to 300 volatile compounds. That’s quite miraculous! Engaging with flowers – how they look and how they smell - can stimulate the production of several chemicals like dopamine, oxytocin and serotonin in our brains. These are the ‘happy’ chemicals. I’ve mentioned serotonin above, and most of us are familiar with dopamine, but oxytocin is also very important for our sense of wellbeing. It is sometimes referred to as the ‘bonding hormone’ or even the ‘cuddle chemical’. That’s because oxytocin creates the feeling of trust and love. When we smell a rose, we trigger the same chemicals in our brain as when we are in love. No wonder the red rose has been the symbol of love since time immemorial. More blog posts from New Leaf Naturals: Spotlight on Borage Curriculum Vitae Natural Skincare for Acne & Problem Skin Teasing Out Lyme Disease Spotlight on Marshmallow Why Use Herbs in Natural Skincare? Handmade Versus Factory Made Why Choose Natural Skincare Products?

A Super Plant, in more ways than one. Borage is native to the Mediterranean and to North Africa, but has spread and naturalized in many other areas. It can be found throughout Europe and North America. Along with Comfrey it is a member of the forget-me-not family Boraginaceae. It grows easily in the UK but is not often found growing wild. If you sow it in your garden you should find it comes back year after year. It’s a very low maintenance plant and fairly pest- and disease-resistant. It has a cottage-garden character, and is visually attractive with its striking blue star-shaped flowers. There was a trend a while ago to rename it as “Starflower” – for obvious reasons - but most people still know it as borage. As we know, bees depend on flowers for their survival. There are two main components here: nectar and pollen. Sugars in nectar provide carbohydrate energy for bees' flight and all their busyness, whereas pollen is their primary source of proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals for building muscular, glandular and skeletal tissues. Not all flowering plants produce nectar. If a plant can have its pollen transported via the wind then it doesn’t have to rely on insects for pollination. And it's not only bees who need pollen. Many other creatures including some ladybirds, various beetles, flies, some spiders, and even some fungi feed on pollen. Why every garden needs borage! Borage flowers are particularly attractive to bees. According to Gardener’s World, after a bee has visited a flower, the flower refills with nectar within two minutes. I remember reading somewhere that the borage flower is pretty much the fastest flower to refill with pollen too, completing this task in about twenty minutes - as opposed to two hours, which is common for other plants. This ready supply of both pollen and nectar, along with its long flowering season, makes borage one of the best pollinator-friendly plants. Not only is borage a super-food for bees and other creepy-crawlies, it is great for the garden too. It is very efficient at drawing up and storing nutrients (such as potassium). Just like comfrey, a mulch of borage enriches the soil, adding trace minerals. So borage is great for the compost heap or for making liquid manure. These days Borage’s main medicinal use is the oil extracted from the seeds. Borage oil can be taken internally as a supplement, or applied externally in skin-care preparations. It is significantly more expensive than oils such as almond or sunflower, so the market is not flooded with borage oil products. If a label promotes its product as ‘containing borage oil’, check the list of ingredients and see how far down the list borage comes. You will rarely find it towards the top, so, once again, don’t be fooled. Borage seed oil is noted for its high GLA content, of which it is the richest known source. It contains 2-3 times more GLA than its closest rival: Evening primrose oil. Gamma-Linolenic Acid is Omega-6. It is anti-inflammatory and for this reason benefits conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis, cardiovascular disease and - topically - eczema. Eczema and dermatitis don’t seem to benefit from oral supplementation with borage oil, but do benefit from topical application. Taken internally, borage oil can help balance hormones and help with PMS or menopausal symptoms and other health problems. So, take capsules to help with systemic health problems, but for skin conditions such as eczema or acne apply products containing borage oil, such as New Leaf Expresso (so named because it brings express relief to itchy uncomfortable eruptions) or SpotTea. The Omegas are well known to benefit brain function and can play an important role in supporting people with ADHD etc. As well as its high Omega 6 content, borage oil also contains omegas 3, 7, 9 and various other fatty acid compounds. There are on-going studies and research into the benefits of borage oil. One study found that it helps lower bad cholesterol. Another study states: "Recently, interest in borage has been renewed because its seeds are considered as one of the best sources of GLA. This unusual fatty acid is an intermediate of indispensable compounds in the body such as prostaglandin E1 and its derivatives. Borage seed oil has been promoted as an effective treatment for different pathologies, such as acute respiratory distress syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis, atopic dermatitis, diabetic neuropathy and menopause-related symptoms. It has also been shown to decrease inflammation, improve bone health, and exhibit beneficial effects on the function of the skin and on the regulation of lipid [fat] metabolism." But enough of all this scientific talk! Borage flowers are very pretty and it’s sad that they have fallen out of fashion over the last century or so. In the past it was common to use the flowers in salads or to decorate cakes and freeze in ice-cubes to prettify drinks. The flowers have a sweet, honey-like taste. Leaves taste fresh, a bit like cucumber. As mentioned, the leaves are a rich source of minerals. Young leaves can be used in salads, but older leaves become quite hairy and are better added to soups or stews. For a useful list of ideas and recipes click here. So, all in all, borage is an amazing gift. It can help our bodies and delight our taste buds, as well as keep the bees and the garden happy. Including parts of the borage plant in your culinary practice will not only add a nice flavour to dishes but will also contribute to your good health, apparently not just physical… John Gerard’s Herball, first published in 1597, says of Borage: "Those of our time do use the flowers in salads to exhilarate and make the mind glad. There be also many things made of these used everywhere for the comfort of the heart, for the driving away of sorrow and increasing the joy of the mind. The leaves and flowers of Borage put into wine make men and women glad and merry and drive away all sadness, dullness and melancholy, as Dioscorides and Pliny affirm. Syrup made of the flowers of Borage comfort the heart, purge melancholy and quiet the frantic and lunatic person. The leaves eaten raw engender good blood, especially in those that have been lately sick." More blog posts from New Leaf Naturals: Curriculum Vitae Natural Skincare for Acne & Problem Skin Teasing Out Lyme Disease Spotlight on Marshmallow Why Use Herbs in Natural Skincare? Handmade Versus Factory Made Why Choose Natural Skincare Products?